Angora rabbits for wool production

The Angora rabbit was first sighted in Ankara, Turkey, or at least that is what we have come to believe. What is certain is that Europe has raised angora rabbits for their fiber for a considerable length of time and the French are known for making their wool; famous around 1790 – although it was up till 1920 before North America saw luxury fiber.

Angora Rabbit Breeds

There are five Angora rabbit breeds that rule in fiber generation: German Angora Giant Angora, Satin Angora, French Angora and English Angora.

Different breeds, for example, the Jersey Wooly and the American Fuzzy Lop additionally create wool. In spite of the fact that hand-spinners are glad to spin with these fibers, these two breeds produce significantly less wool due to their small stature.

The wooled breeds are quiet natured and are known for their compliant demeanor. They make brilliant pets and are delicate with kids. All things considered, day to day care for this rabbit regularly falls onto the grown-up as the grooming can be tedious.

About Angora Rabbit Wool

Angora rabbit wool is very popular and considered top notch in the fiber producing world. Angora fiber can be sold raw as it is gotten off the rabbit either left in their regular color, dyed or spun.

Its fiber so fine, that it is typically mixed with different fibers, for example, cashmere, silk, mohair and sheep‘s wool. The surface of Angora wool alone is viewed as too fine to even consider holding the thick lines of knitting.

Angora is considered to be multiple times hotter than sheep‘s wool and considered unreasonably warm for a piece of clothing. Mixing others with angora wool will add a ‘halo’ effect, warmth and softness to a piece of clothing.

Harvesting Angora Wool

Wool can be harvested from the rabbit from means of either shearing or plucking. A few breeds, for example, the English Angora, normally shed (or otherwise regarded as “blowing their jacket”) a few times a year. In any case, natural molting varies from breed to breed.

Raisers that have naturally molting rabbits can exploit this by relentlessly culling the slackened fiber while they’re in a molt. In other cases, the wool harvesting can be done by means of clippers or scissors.

For the record, the process of harvesting should never harm or bring pain to the rabbit.

Advantages of Raising Angora Rabbits

  • They’re a no-kill domesticated animal (as producers of wool), which is beneficial to rabbit farmers or prospective rabbit farmers.
  • Easy to feed.
  • Breeding is straightforward and reproduction is quick.
  • Harvesting the wool is unwinding and pleasurable.
  • Rabbits can likewise be entered in shows, move toward becoming 4H undertakings, and make incredible pets – making them a family venture.
  • Fiber can be sold for a benefit or kept close by for hand-spinning for the breeder.

Angora Raising Considerations:

  • Angora rabbits require extraordinary husbandry practices that are essential to their wellbeing and in addition fiber production.
  • Animal hypersensitivities in the family.
  • Coat upkeep.
  • Daily care as it is with other animals.

3 Tips to Preserve Quality of Water in the Pool

Crystal-clear water – this is what most of us want in a pool. However, how is this possible? The rest of this post has the answer. By keeping in mind the things that will be mentioned below, the pool will be more inviting. Not to mention, when the quality is preserved, your health won’t be at risk!

Maintain the Right Level of Chemicals

The mere mention of chemicals can make people cringe. In the case of swimming pools, chemicals are actually important. They assume a critical role in making sure that the water remains clean and fresh. The two most important things to check are the pH and the chlorine. Chlorine is important since it is the one responsible for getting rid of bacteria and germs. On the other hand, the pH level will ensure that the chemicals will be absorbed by the water in your swimming pool. There are pH testing kits that you can buy for ease of monitoring. Meanwhile, a saltwater chlorinator will come handy in keeping the chlorine in check with the use of table salt.

Pay Attention to Regular Skimming

Skimming the water is an important part of swimming pool care and maintenance basically because it gets rid of leaves, dead insects, oils, and other debris that can be seen floating. If you have an inground pool, the skimmer will be built-in on the side walls. It has a suction that draws the dirt out of the water. If you have an above-ground pool, on the other hand, you can use a robotic or floating skimmer. The latter is not a permanent fixture of the pool and can be placed in the water only when it needs cleaning. The skimmer will be responsible for the removal of the large debris, specifically the ones that cannot be handled by the swimming pool filter.

Shock the Pool

Simply put, shocking refers to the process of adding a large amount of chlorine in the pool to get rid of the funky smell and to make sure that the water remains clear. This will also be effective in killing the algae that are possibly present in the pool. Shocking is especially important after a pool party or heavy use. It restores the quality of the water to guarantee freshness the next time it is used. The process of shocking usually starts by checking the chemical content and vacuuming it. It is also recommended that you do the shocking at night as exposure to direct sunlight will make the chlorine dissolve quickly. In a bucket of water, add chlorine and pour it in the pool.  The size of the pool will determine the amount of chlorine that you will need for this procedure.


Smooth and rough green snakes

Rough and smooth green snakes are closely related and despite the fact that there are a few differences between them, caring for them is basically the same. These are both little, thin-bodied snakes local to North America. Rough snakes are seen frequently in the pet exchange than the smooth green snakes.

  • Names: Keeled snake, vine snake, garden snake, green whip snake, grass snake, smooth green snake (Opheodrys vernalis), rough green snake (Opheodrys aestivus)
  • Lifespan: Up to 15 years is accounted for rough green snakes but most of them don’t live that long. 6-8 years is more realistic.
  • Size: Rough green snakes can grow to be 2 to 3 feet long, while smooth green snakes are shorter and smaller and usually never exceeds 2 feet.

Green Snake Temperament and Behavior

Both smooth and rough green snakes are a brilliant emerald-green shading. They usually have a light yellow or cream-shaded belly. They are known to take up a pale blue tone when they feel excited. Since smooth and rough green snakes both have thin bodies, their cages should be sealed properly.

Housing the Green Snake

A 30-gallon tank is a decent choice since it gives a lot of room for greenery and also concealing spots. Green snakes are tranquil, can live comfortably so they can be kept in groups. The tank will require a tight-fitting fine mesh screen to secure all exit points.

Green snakes that don’t have bunches of greenery to cover up in could become stressed. These snakes are small enough to live on plants such as ivy, pothos, silk plants, and other nontoxic plants so fill something like 33% of the tank with greenery.


A recommended temperature range for green snakes is 70 to 80 F (21 to 27 C) but certain references have recommended a higher temperature range. In the evening, the temperature can be ideal to drop to somewhere in the range of 65 and 75 F (18 to 24 C).


An overhead warmth source, for example, a heat bulb (purple/blue or red at night and white light amid the day) or ceramic heat emitter is preferable. The overhead warmth source can be enhanced by warmth from an under tank heat map, however, ensure your snake cannot sit right at the top of the glass since the heat could cause thermal burns. Being diurnal, these snakes ought to likewise have a UVA/UVB bulb on for up to 12 hours daily.

Water and Food

Green snakes are insectivores and are among the few snakes that can survive just by feeding on insects. In the wild, they generally feed on spiders, fly larvae, caterpillars, grasshoppers, moths and crickets.

Mealworms can be occasionally fed to them but not all the time because their extreme exoskeletons may pose a danger of impaction. Dust prey with a calcium supplement at least a few times a week.

A shallow dish of water sufficiently extensive for the snake to move into for a bath, yet shallow enough to avert drowning, should be placed in the cage. Be that as it may, these snakes appear to favor drinking water beads off leaves instead of from a bowl so an everyday misting of the greenery is required.

Common Health Problems

As with best snakes trap common health problems may include respiratory infections and mouth rot (infectious stomatitis). These conditions can be treated by a reptile vet.